Day Six - Beddgelert to Criccieth, 11 miles.

Total ascent, 861m. Saturday, 6th August.

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My lasting impression of Bryn Eglwys Country House Hotel is of somewhere that's geared towards people (even) older than ourselves. I have never seen so many sofas in one room as there were in the lounge, they were everywhere, as were plastic plants. There was also an odd little bar at the back that I suspect nobody ever sits in. Don't get me wrong, it's a lovely place and the room had a smashing view. It just reminded me of the type of place that an Agatha Christie murder mystery would have taken place in.


View from in bed this morning!

We sent two parcels home today, containing things we've either finished with or are not going to need: unread books, maps of areas we've now passed through, warm fleeces and dirty clothes. Actually they were all mine because Jen has been good and washed her stuff as she's gone along. A few of my particularly 'tired' items of clothing I've just put in hotel room bins!

At one o'clock this afternoon, as we descended Moel Hebog through bogs and over tussocks, I remember thinking, "Thank goodness I'm wearing two pairs of socks and leather boots." At three o'clock this afternoon, as we staggered along a country lane towards Criccieth in the blazing sun I remember thinking, "Why on earth am I wearing two pairs of socks and leather boots?!" It was that sort of day. Another of those days of two halves. The first half a cool and cloudy, no nonsense 750 metre climb straight from Beddgelert up one of the ridges of Moel Hebog, the second half a hot and at times sunny lane and path walk down to Criccieth.


Stop cheating! Who's going to pay their sponsor money now?


On our way up. Yr Aran in the background towards the left and Moel Siabod from 2 days ago in the centre distance.

Once Jen had finished playing in a tractor we managed to get started. The ascent was pretty steep with a few scrambly, rocky bits. Jen seemed to really enjoy the ascent, apart from the parts that were pretty steep with a few scrambly, rocky bits. Anyway she did it! Then it was cloudy on top so I needed to use a compass to get us off the thing. Then the path I wanted to go down didn't exist and the one that did sent us into the next valley east. Then we had lunch when we reached the roadhead at Llyn Cwmystradllyn and a woman walked past us carrying an ironing board. Then we did the hot lane bit.

Then we reached the sea!!! I suppose this was always going to be the most momentous moment of the whole walk for me, and Jen seemed impressed that we'd got here after 72 miles of walking. The weather had closed in by now which was quite a relief, but we still felt that an ice cream was appropriate before heading to Moelwyn Restaurant with Rooms, our accommodation for tonight. It's the most no-frills place we've stayed in but the room in still lovely, with views directly onto the sea and a bath overflow that sounds like it sends the water directly onto the pavement below, though it might not.


Trees, the sea and Criccieth Castle peeping through the middle.

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

Day Five - Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel to Beddgelert, 11 miles.

Total ascent, 793m. Friday, 5th August.

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Beddgelert is the most beautiful village in Snowdonia, bar none (Dolgellau is a town!). It's therefore a great place to finish a walk and stay at, but I've always been doubtful of its ability to deliver a really good pint and a really good meal, so as it's 7pm we're about to find out if progress has been made in those departments. Our accommodation however is another beauty, Bryn Eglwys Country House Hotel, with a superb view along the valley (north) and an excellent wifi signal from the room (for surfin' an' trollin' obv).


Coffee's brewin', at Pen-y-Gwryd!

Oh and we've done some more walking today. I think we might be the only people around here who don't want the sun to come out! This morning our wish was granted, simply because we were close to Snowdon where a good weather forecast means absolutely nothing. After yet another delicious breakfast we descended on an attractive (but slow and fiddly) path down the valley to meet the start of the Watkin Path up Snowdon, then followed it for the first mile before veering off left. It was all about water up to this point: streams, rivers, waterfalls and lakes all over the place.


A glimpse of Snowdon.


Jen on a dubious footbridge!

Yr Aran, our target, is a satellite of Snowdon, but at 747m and well away from the main massif makes a good walk on its own. We stopped for lunch shortly after passing a very large group of children (about 11/12 years old, with instructors obviously!) coming down a difficult descent, and shortly before meeting a shepherd with his collie having a very fast wander round the mountainside to get the sheep off the areas of grass that need to regenerate. Jen even asked him if he was a shepherd (hence our detailed knowledge of his purpose!). It was a steep pull up to the ridge followed by another to the summit, by which time we were enveloped in cloud. At one point the sun appeared above us and it felt a little like when you're ascending through cloud in a plane and you finally break through into the light, with the clouds below you.

The temperature dropped so we headed down quite quickly, and then the sun came out in style! The descent was hot but straightforward until we had a rest and I said to Jen, "This descent has been hot but straightforward so far." After that the last hour was really hard work. Firstly it got hotter, secondly I tried to find a route directly down into Beddgelert which wasn't there, thirdly we kept having to descend mini-cliffs, fourthly we couldn't so I changed the route, fifthly we ended up in a farm, sixthly the path we were on didn't actually go to Beddgelert, seventhly we had to walk along the 'A' something or other to finish.



Two views of tomorrow's target, Moel Hebog, taken an hour apart,

So thankfully I can report that Beddgelert does indeed offer great food at its mighty fine bistro, with one stumbling block. It is run by a couple who are planning to retire. She cooks and he is front of house. So I must tentatively enter the controversial realms of sexism here by stating that she should stay in the bloody kitchen! Or at least away from the punters. The food she cooked was wonderful, possibly the best yet, and he was a fantastic host, but when she had done her night's work and emerged to tell us her life story, why she was annoyed that guests would be very late arriving tonight and how Welsh people didn't like the English learning the language she'd totally lost me. Bed time methinks!

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

Day Four - Betws-y-Coed to Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, 11 miles.

Total ascent, 918m. Thursday, 4th August.

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Last night's meal was fantastic, at a Welsh tapas restaurant called Olif where everything in the recipes is sourced in Wales. That included the chorizo! Highly recommended if you're in Betws, as is the Alpine Coffee House.

Today was definitely a day of two contrasting halves in terms of scenery. The morning was a stroll along the north bank of the Llugwy river from Betws to the Ugly House (if you know it you'll understand). It's a superb stretch of path along a dramatic valley (trees, trees and more trees) and very peaceful despite the A5 being on the other side. We were even able to get a good look at the Swallow Falls without the ridiculous entrance fee you have to pay if you enter through the gate on the south bank (yeah, let's stick it to the man!).

I need to eat humble pie at this point. I had always thought that the Ugly House was a gimmicky sort of place where they charged you to have a look at two rooms with crooked walls. How wrong I was, it's a fab little tea room with gardens run by a charity called the Snowdonia Society. I can heartily recommend the citrus sponge cake. And they have compost toilets, pretty rad' huh?


The Ugly House.

The afternoon was an ascent of Moel Siabod, at 872m the highest point on our walk and surely the least walked of all the 'important' mountains in Snowdonia. I have no idea why. It's a personal favourite and was the first mountain I ever walked up with Jen. Actually that's not strictly true, I took her up via a ridge scramble rather than a walk but she didn't finish with me so it couldn't have been that bad!


Approaching Moel Siabod.

The views were superb as ever, despite cloud over the highest peaks. Arenig Fawr might have the best views of Snowdonia as a whole, but Siabod has the best views of the biggies. After 10 minutes of drizzle when we set off this morning the weather had improved dramatically, and the views were excellent. From the summit we could clearly see Moel Famau, just a few miles from home, in the far distance, where we had been only three days before, and in the other direction we could see the headland south of Abersoch where we'll be four days from now!


Jen on the summit with lurking cloud.

The descent to Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel was pretty tough as there is no path, so there was lots of tussock hopping to avoid the bogs. It did though mean that we could head downhill directly towards the door of the hotel. We were harassed by a mountain rescue helicopter on several occasions on the way down, either they thought we needed help or they were bored, it was hard to tell.


A sight for sore feet!

Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel is pretty iconic in Snowdonia, being as it is on its own at the base of Snowdon, and it was also the base for preparations for the Everest expedition in 1953. It looks and feels unlike any other hotel I've been to, full of climbing memorabilia and brilliant photos of the Everest expedition group. Dinner was announced by a gong, and we all filed into the 1930s dining room together for our 3 course meal. Our room is fantastic too, with a balcony and the option of a sauna (somewhere in the garden apparently!) if we want one.


Boot display in the bar, with a superb photo of Hillary and Tenzing on Everest in 1953.

Oh and we reached the 50 mile mark today, nearly half way to Aberdaron!

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

Day Three - Rhydlydan to Betws-y-Coed, 10 miles.

Total ascent, 240m. Wednesday, 3rd August.

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Jen and I tend to enjoy similar sorts of weather when we're walking, thought I probably lean more towards the wussier side of things these days. Jen likes cool and cloudy, is happy in rain and prefers it not to be sunny. Breezy is a bonus. I like warm and cloudy, am happy in the sun and prefer it not to be raining. Breezy is a bonus.

Today offered Jen her perfect walking conditions: cool, cloudy and breezy, but still very much shorts and tee shirt weather. I made a good decision as an assist: to start and finish this straightforward 10 miler early. We were done and in our four poster room at the Royal Oak by 2 and it was raining as forecast by 3, heavily by 4.

Jen was in fine fettle this morning after a brisk bedroom bootcamp session (which this time included headbutting my leg, I'm not sure why) and a delicious breakfast. Llwyn Onn also pledged a donation towards the walk and complimentary packed lunches. Top marks to them when I add my review!


A typical view today.


And another.

The walk was lovely throughout and quite varied, insomuch as it varied between common land and fields. Which I suppose isn't a huge variation, but the fields did have shorter grass and cows. The views were great despite the summits being in cloud and therefore hard to recognise. The going was for the most part good to firm (horse racing fans), so in seemingly no time we crossed the pedestrian suspension bridge over the River Conwy and arrived at the miniature steam railway, which we resisted despite its obvious attraction coupled with a quite reasonable ride price (£2 - bargain!). We could have done with a small child as well I suppose. There are a lot of overweight men in vests in Betws-y-Coed.


The suspension bridge.


Oh pleeeeaase can we, Jen?

As all large pubs in rural towns and villages seem to, the Royal Oak smells of roast lamb. The room though is great with a view of the river, which Jen would be enjoying too if she weren't in the midst of a power snooze. I am incapable of such a thing, once I'm asleep I stay asleep, so I'm always amazed when she wakes up as if she hasn't even closed her eyes. Mind you she's just done that after a whole 8 minutes lying down, which is more like a power blink if you ask me.

Anyway we've done a third of the distance to Aberdaron. After a simple day today the next three follow a fairly similar pattern: flat bit then a mountain, flat bit then a mountain, mountain then a flat bit. All three mountains could have been avoided quite easily, but don't tell Jen!


Er...!

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

Day Two - Bontuchel to Rhydlydan, 16.5 miles.

Total ascent, 526m. Tuesday, 2nd August.

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Today was perfect weather for 'getting on with it'. Warm but not too warm, cloudy but not rainy and with limited views. Who needs distractions such as views? It was also our longest day of the walk so we needed to get on with it. Firstly though Jen needed to warm up with a range of her boot camp exercises, which I couldn't see as she was behind the bed but could clearly hear. Much grunting was involved!

Whilst I was checking out a couple appeared from London, or at least they had London accents.
Her (panicking): "What does 'No Service' mean?"
Him: "It means you don't have a phone signal."
Her: "So what am I supposed to do now? I won't be able to do anything!"
Do you remember your first time with 'No Service'? How did you cope? (And why hadn't she noticed the night before? Was she too busy to use her phone?!)

In a nutshell today's route went through woodland, along lanes, through forests, alongside lakes, into a cafe, over moorland and along the A5. Sort of in that order. A highlight was the first descent through a cool, damp wood. Very peaceful and very beautiful first thing in the morning (at 9:30). I was in front and soon became a human cobweb but it was worth it (how do spiders manage to do that?!). Another highlight was the amount of wild, very tasty fruit on offer today, mainly raspberries and bilberries.


Llyn Brenig and watchful sheep


View from the Brenig cafe

It was very strange when Llyn Brenig (an enormous reservoir on the wild and windy Denbigh Moors) suddenly appeared ahead. It's very close to Pentrellyncymer, an outdoor education centre we've both been to with our schools, myself less than 3 weeks ago with our Year 4s. I found it hard to believe that we'd walked there in a day and a half. I also found it hard to believe that just after leaving the Brenig Visitor Centre cafe Anwen from work and her husband drove past us! How did that happen? We had a brief chat before heading for the other major reservoir nearby, the Alwen, with its superb dam.


The Alwen Dam...


...and reservoir.

The final stretch of forest followed by moorland was all merely building up to the climax: that mile and a half stretch along the A5! Not pleasant no, but necessary to get us to the only accommodation option I could find in the area, the very lovely Llwyn Onn Guest House. The only problem now is that the nearest pub is half a mile away. I hope Jen doesn't mind!

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone

Day One - Mold to Bontuchel, 12.5 miles

Total ascent 697m. Monday, 1st August. Well to start with I make no apologies for putting our justgiving page address at the start of each blog post, so here it is:

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/kevjen

Secondly, this year has to be slightly different to previous years. Not only do I have to allow an additional toiletry bag onto my accommodation's bathroom shelf, I also have nuptial requirements to attend to, which will probably involve going to the bar at 15 minute intervals for a glass of Merlot, but also includes the likes of talking. Now I like a chat as much as anybody else, but my mindset on previous walks has been to drift into a Billy-no-mates state in the corner of a bar and concoct endless and mostly meaningless missives to post online for a few people to read. This year I am very much in newlywed territory so will attempt (though I've failed in the past) to keep blog posts short and to the point.

We left home at 10:20, a little later than planned but I had to take photos of Jen wearing a purple scarf along with her walking gear. I'm not sure why. Today was nearly all on very familiar territory, so after an hour or so we were at Loggerheads in Caffi Florence on our first tea and coffee break. And cake and scone break.


Purple scarf and Jen

Next was an ascent of Moel Famau on its finest east ridge. It's the best approach not only because it is the most scenic, but also because nobody really bothers going that way, possibly because it's a tough ascent compared to the others. There were fewer people on the summit than usual, but we stopped to talk to a girl who was doing Offa's Dyke north to south and another lady out walking, while a couple nearby stared at each other with a look that suggested we were all complete idiots. Possibly, yes!


Moel Famau's east ridge

The descent into the Vale of Clwyd was lovely, though Jen's behaviour became erratic at this point. She had been going to a half hour boot camp pretty much every day (and occasionally twice a day) leading up to the wedding, and now appeared to think that running away intermittently and at speed was the healthiest thing to do. So she did. We finally reconvened at the bottom and it was a 2 mile lane walk to the divine Sugar Plum Tea Room in Rhewl, for a pre-booked quite late afternoon tea. More tea, coffee, cakes and scones were dispatched and the kind owner pledged £20 to our cause.




After an overcast but pretty pleasant day it now started to rain, but much less than had been forecast. The last 3 miles were alongside a pretty river, then up a lane to Woodlands Hall Hotel. Now my accommodation on these walls as a rule is basic with the occasional corker, but hey, this is our honeymoon so effort was needed. Most look pretty nice, (though at a few points on the walk there's little choice), but this one's a beauty! A suite on the top floor of a very old hotel with a complimentary bottle of Prosecco (yes of course I told them beforehand that we're on our honeymoon!). So that's gone down nicely before dinner, and it's curry night!!! I don't half find them.


The Tower suite

-- Posted from Kev's iPhone